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Perms
are back!!!. Perming or permanent waves is a great
way to add body, curls, & bounces to your hair. Perms
can increase the fullness of soft, fine hair, put
a curl or wave into straight hair, or simply make
your hair easier to style. Thus perming can be used
for styling hair in the following ways.
- To
add curl. If your hair is fine and limp, getting
perms just might do the trick for you. Gone are
those days of tight, poodle type curls. Now you
can choose from a variety of size curls. From
small rollers to large, 1 ½ inch rollers, perms
are out of the dark ages. A large roller will
give you a very soft curl. A smaller roller will
give you more of a spiral look.
- To
relax naturally curly hair. If you have naturally
curly hair, that is unruly, perming can tame those
locks. By using a large roller then your natural
curl size, perming will break down your hair and
create a new curl.
- And
to straighten hair. Yes, you can use perms to
straighten hair. However, this method is tedious
and time consuming. The lotion would be applied
and then the stylist would comb your hair straight
for the length of the timing. Sometimes up to
20 minutes. And this method would only be used
on hair that is almost straight.
The strength of the perming solution used to curl
the hair is measured by pH, which can be either
alkaline or acidic.
ALKALINE WAVE:
It is the best choice for resistant hair,
Asian hair, hair with low elasticity, and hard
to perm fine hair as well as normal, healthy hair.
ACID WAVE: These
are milder than alkaline perms and work at a lower
pH to reduce swelling of the hair during the perm
process thus-reducing the chance of damage to
fragile and colour treated hair. A good choice
for healthy hair with good elasticity, tinted
hair, damaged hair, highlighted hair, or fragile
hair.
The perming process
-
The hair is first washed and then wound on to
some kind of former, such as a curler or a rod.
The perm lotion is applied to the hair. Because
the lotion is alkaline (pH about 9) the scales
of the cuticle open slightly, allowing the lotion
to flow under the cuticle and into the cortex.
Here it reacts with the keratin of the cortex,
breaking some of the disulphide cross-links within
and between the protein chains. The hair swells
and 'softens', so that it can stretch to take
up the shape of the formers.
-
After a while the perm lotion is thoroughly rinsed
away and a neutralising lotion is applied. This
re-forms the broken cross-links, which makes the
hair harden into its new, curlier shape. This
stage is the key to a successful perm: failure
to rinse and neutralise properly can lead to many
problems, including scalp irritation and damage
to the structure of the hair shaft.
Some Tips if you are
perming your hair at home:
-
First and foremost wash and condition your hair
properly. Hair that has already been chemically
processed may need a cream conditioner applied
to protect the hair before perming.
-
Use protective gloves when applying chemicals.
- When
wrapping hair around rollers, each section must
be wrapped smoothly and evenly, without stretching
the hair too tightly.
-
After thoroughly rinsing out the permanent solution
with warm water, a neutralizer must usually be
applied for five to eight minutes to set the curl.
- Remove
rollers and then rinse off neutralizer thoroughly
with cool water.
-
Do not use if you are allergic to any ingredient
in the product. Avoid contact with eyes, nose,
and mouth.
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