Beauty & Fashion >> Lakme India Fashion Week 2003

Lakme India Fashion Week - Day 7 (24th July 2003)

Payal Jain
Payal's collection palette was autumnal, reminiscent of falling leaves and deep gemstones. The first sequence had a strongly oriental feel with acid green raw silk brocade-edged jackets wrapped and bound by obi-style high belts. These were worn over black skirts - not as mini as has been the main trend this week or churidar/leggings ruched all the way down the out seem. Faux suede was used in beautiful patchwork skirts in multi muted shades finished with chikan. There were several must-have lycra tops in autumnal rusts and ochres worked with chikan and layered. Her sequence of black trouser suits teamed with one of the lycra tops were another must-have for any sophisticated woman about town.

Rajesh Pratap Singh
The glory of the collection was in the surface texturing, innovative use of very basic colours and, of course his mastery of cutting and draping techniques. The first sequence of burnt and singed look neutrals, intricately styled, in particular the trousers worn by Jesse with a series of small pockets lined down the back were reminiscent of Schiaparelli's drawer suit; the calico irregularly tucked skirt, the skirt with round button down pocket appliqués, the magenta rough dyed long dress with high neck large button detailing at back and front hip level pockets; the knee length cream belted and skirted coat, the long indigo flared coat with red topstitching, the formal dark navy coat that flowed to the ground in a gentle flare, the fabulous prints of scissors, keys, coat hangers which looked as if they must have been achieved with a photographic technique. This collection was excellent.

Rina Dhaka
From a designer whose colour palette is so often vibrant we saw a much more subdued mood, with colours ranging from white, to greys, indigos, blacks and taupes. Her western silhouettes were created from a variety of modern fabrics including lycra, for a body hugging line, georgette, and panné velvet. There were lots of Indian touches to be seen, like chikan, mirrorwork, leheriya, tribal embroidery (one of the only flashes of bright colour),ikat prints, gota and beadwork. Skirt lengths were short, often with the flippy asymmetric hem lines that Anita Dongre did so well. Trousers were slim line flares.

Satya Paul
The first sequence of the Satya Paul collection was in black red and white printed with Oriental calligraphy. The lines were clean and uncluttered. Western fusion shapes: mini dresses, kurti churidars, ruched slinky pants in silk crepe de chines. Next was a sequence of slightly 60s looking spotty pints: white on strong pastels. This dotty theme went into a line of georgette saris. The next sequence was again in pastels, but this time all stripes: horizontal, vertical diagonal and chevrons. Pants were wide legged flares or slimline understated flares. There was a lot of lycra as mini dresses and micro skirts.

Lakme Grand Finale
This year, Mumbai-based Hemant Trevedi and Goan Wendell Rodricks were the grand finale designers. Wendell Rodricks showcased his collection for three Indian weathers in geometrical Indian shapes. He kept his emphasis on concrete themes, experimental color combinations and exotic fiber weaves. Skirts were with deep slits, trousers, tops, shirts, wraps and jackets. The fabrics used were lycra, crepe, georgettes and synthetic fiber.The colour palette ranged from blue, light green, red and turquoise. While Hemant Trivedi presented his creative brush with fabric to provide another skin. Hot weather story in warm tones, wet story for a more youthful, sexy and club-wear attitude and cool weather story with extensive embellishments on airy fabrics like chiffon and georgettes. Skirts were long and minis, wraps, body-hugging tops and trousers. Fabrics used were blue denim, lycra, chiffon and georgettes. And the colour palette ranged from blue, pink, orange, green and beige.